Doozo Noodle & Dumplings is mostly just that, a small eatery dispensing Chinese noodle and dumpling dishes. Actually, for most patrons, it’s only half that phrase, the dumplings.
Doozo’s rendition of the steamed Chinese dumplings draws huge lines during the long lunchtime hours at the Houston Center downtown. Doozo efficiently serves the crush of patrons with dumplings that have been made shortly beforehand in various combinations. Since there are just steamed pork, vegetable and chicken, and then combinations thereof (half pork, half vegetable, etc.), the number of permutations is easily manageable. The very prompt service, in addition to the tasty and quick-to-consume dumplings, is part of the attraction to office workers with tight schedules.
The pork dumpling is filled with shredded pork and some type of greens. The vegetable dumplings have greens, clear, thin rice noodles and what seems to be bean curd. The chicken is just shredded chicken, and comparatively somewhat bland. The pork is probably the most flavorful of the three, though each is tasty. These dumplings are great when downtown and pressed for time, but are not quite as good as those at the Dumpling King on Westheimer or San Dong Noodle House in New Chinatown, which are cooked to order. Since Doozo’s has to pre-cook the dumplings to satisfy the dramatic lunchtime spike in business, the dumpling cover often becomes slightly gummy. But, no matter, this fact will not deter you from coming again, when downtown.
You have a choice of spicy or mild dipping sauce to accompany the dumplings. In the Cantonese-style, the spicy is not very spicy at all, but it’s more flavorful than the mild sauce. Both are primarily soy sauce and make for nice complements to the dumplings, as the sauce is quickly absorbed through those fairly thin wrappings. If the popular dumplings are not for you, there are also four types of pre-packaged sushi (doesn’t it seem most every Asian restaurant serves sushi these days), and several noodle dishes. Everything is inexpensive here, and served very quickly.
Doozo Noodle & Dumplings
1200 McKinney (at San Jacinto; Houston Center, 3 Floor)
Houston, Texas 77002,
Copyright Mike Riccetti. Adapted from Houston Dining on the Cheap, and used with permission.
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