Lankford Grocery is a charming, somewhat anachronistic, place. It’s a friendly, homey neighborhood eatery that seems oddly located very near to downtown. Located in an old house that functioned as a small grocery store until 1977, Lankford is a small restaurant. It is somewhat quaint, sporting a warped floor, unmatched furniture, and adorned with a lot of old knick-knacks, and about a dozen booths and picnic tables in the small dining room.
The biggest draw here is the excellent hamburgers. These are quite tasty; properly juicy and unpretentious. Not the designer-style hamburgers, these are the basic, very flavorful burgers that you wish you could consistently make on the backyard grill. Lankford begins with large handmade patties about a third-pound in size or so that are grilled to order, and are served with a slice of tomato, sliced white onions, and an ample-sized leaf of crisp iceberg lettuce on large toasted hamburger buns. You can get these fitted with cheese and bacon and with a second patty. The accompanying fries are freshly made, and are crisp and very satisfying. Tater tots are another option.
There are other lunchtime offerings on the limited menu. Sandwiches include turkey, ham and tuna, and a deep-fried chicken strip sandwich. Salads come in the garden or chef variety, large and small sizes. They also have daily specials that can include those long-time Houston favorites such as enchiladas, chicken fried steak and a taco dinner. If you have room for dessert, there is banana pudding and flan, which are made in-house and quite tasty.
Offered during each morning from Monday through Saturday are the basic American breakfasts plus, requisite for this city, a few Mexican items. These are all generally quite fulfilling, filling and good values. The biscuits and gravy, which are served with a couple of good breakfast sausage patties, might be the best in town. Fresh, butter-laden biscuits and thick flavorful gravy complement each other very well, if not your arteries. Only on Saturday mornings, though.
Service is always very friendly here, as are the regulars.
Lankford Grocery 88 Dennis (near Midtown, north of Brazos), Houston, Texas 77006 (713) 522-9555 http://www.lankfordgrocery.com/
Copyright Mike Riccetti. Adapted from Houston Dining on the Cheap, and used with permission.
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